Silk

16 February 2017 10:01 pm
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
Did anyone see the$9.99 silk taffeta sale at Fabric Mart? There's some really good stuff. The jacquards in particular are extremely nice for mid-19th century. Patterned silks with woven texture are fairly common in extants, but not often seen in reproduction. A lot of the tan blends (just one example) look very much like things I've seen in museums and on ebay. I can't do the tan/beige/gold family, but a lot of you can. You need them!
nuranar: (indiana jones)

As the first day of the four-day weekend, I took my friend to the fabric warehouses in Dallas for her birthday. She'd never been, so it was fun. We spent most of the day there, with a break in the middle for a huge lunch at Red Lobster. I'm still very full!

Although I wasn't really looking for anything, I bought the most. At Golden D'or I found a bolt with two yards of a really gorgeous silk brocade. The ground is an eggshell/tan, with a pattern of foliage in sage and flowers in pink, blue, purple, and yellow. The colors are rich and jewel-like, not faded. It's not the same design as this gown, but it's a similar effect. What can I do with two yards? Anything besides a jacket? (It's a good thing there wasn't enough for a sacque - at $18/yd it wasn't unreasonable, but I haven't budgeted for a big gown!)

I also found a green print that has a very 40s look - green flower shapes on a background of small green dots, some of the flowers made of fine stripes. It's a lightweight fabric, too, so much better suited for dressmaking than quilting cotton is. It was $3/yd. At the same place I found a really adorable tropical print. The ground fabric is a darkish gray/sage, which I'm not wild about, but it's got ocean liners and palm trees, and little huts on tiny islands, and pineapples and guitars - and those colors are white, gray, tans and browns, and two shades of pretty green, and two shades of pretty pink! It's SO cute. There was not much of it at all, alas - less than 2 yards. But I may be able to eke out a skirt, or definitely a shirt/top of some kind. And it was in the $2/yd section, and the lady measuring just call it one yard. I can deal with it for $2!

Best Fabrics, which used to be at the corner of Harry Hines and Perth, just moved across the street on Harry Hines into a bigger store. I just happened to look closely at one of the few wools they had - navy blue cavalry twill!  Some of you remember the vintage jodhpurs I wore to the Safari at the Zoo last year:

DSC06548


These fit me wonderfully in the waist and hip, but are ludicrously short in the legs. I could add at least 3" both above and below the knee. Even my Bro. No. 2 knew the solution - take them apart and make a pattern! They're pretty generic and don't have tricky tailoring, so it would be pretty simple. The big thing that's been holding me back is finding cavalry twill. It's still made (obviously) but rarely labeled as such, and while the double twill is obvious in person it's hard to see online. And I've also dithered about what color I want. The green is great; but tan is more traditional AND more adventure-y; and navy is my 1940s base neutral. So this takes it out of my hands. And not only was it $10/yd, they're having a 25% off sale on everything because of their move! Yay!

So of course I want to make those now instead of finishing the Pesky Pannier. :p


Anyway, I was way too tired by the time I got home to sew much. But I did use my last package of dye remover on one of the lengths of lace I got in my shopping spree several weeks ago. It's a very fine cluny-type edging, but unfortunately distinctly ecru. Which will look lousy on my white undies. But the dye remover seems to have mostly worked. It's not pure white, but I think it's just barely off-white. That'll do.

Now I think I'm going to set my hair in sponge rollers. I'm getting tired of not curling it, and the hot rollers are a hassle and just don't give much curl after three days.

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
If anyone is interested, today Fabric Mart has satin 45% off. Most is polyester, but there are some black and navy 100% silk satins as well. If you have a use for non-duchess silk satin in those colors, have at it!

Black silk satin, 44w, $13.74
Black silk satin, 44w, $8.24
Black 2ply silk satin, 44w, $8.24
Midnight navy silk satin, 44w, $13.74
Navy matte silk satin, 54w, $10.99
Silver silk/cotton satin, 44w, $8.24

There are also a few silk satin georgettes on sale. And if you're in the market for poly satin, most are $3.24/yd.

And linen/linen blends are also 45% off, today only. This metallic-glazed taupe linen is really interesting for something fantasy.
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Claudette Colbert)
I had most of the work for my crown done this morning. The temporary is in now and the numbness wore off hours ago. My jaw is still very sore from being held open so long, though. I'm very glad I won't be doing serious singing tomorrow.

The trip to Dallas for court dress stuff was moderately successful. I have some really nice fake fur from Golden D'or (thanks, Jen!), and a true gold on white brocade for the petticoat from Best Fabrics.  Neither one cost very much, either; the brocade was $6/yd, and it was about 62" wide. The fur/minky was more like $13/yd, but I got 1.5 yds and I'm pretty sure I overbought.

Only things left to actually buy now?
* brooch things
* white fringe
* lace (3 sizes)
* silver cord
* silver tassels (or materials for making)

Easy. >.<


I also lucked into a 2.5 yd remnant of handkerchief linen at Golden D'or for $6/yd. It's more like $8/yd plus shipping from Fabric Store, so it's a good investment. It'll probably be turned into drawers.

Now we'll see if I can turn around this bodice in 9 days! Or maybe I'll think of another tiny project to use for the Literature challenge. I have very little desire to kill myself over this dress.


Oh, I also stopped at the new antique mall in Arlington. It's run by the same people who do the Montgomery Street one in Fort Worth. Nice stuff, true antiques (not gift stuff), in most cases priced fairly but not for bargains.  BUT I still came away with a picture: this botanical poster from 1730, matted and framed in a gilt frame.  For $10. Very happy!   The colors are beautiful, less primary than the All Posters one. It will look so pretty in my sitting room.

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
One of the best of many good parts of going to Costume College (say I, with my lofty two years' experience) is the shopping. Both in the Marketplace at Costume College itself, and in the Los Angeles garment district either before or after. This year I spent most of my money in the garment district, but I did pretty well in other places, too.

I made it to the garment district on Thursday, right before Costume College. This was my third visit, and for the first time I really felt like I knew what I was doing.  I think for most people, their first time they just kind of freeze - sensory overload! Uncountable colors! Millions of yards of fabric! So much stuff everywhere, and no labels or prices to be seen!! But now I knew what to expect. Plus I'd had the benefit of using the fabric district in Dallas.  It's much smaller than L.A. (the district, not the city), but the stores are very similar with their overall lack of careful organization and labeling. This is not Joann's!

Anyway, on my first trip this year, I came away with:

A length of a mystery cotton blend print, for a dress, modern or vintage-inspired.

See more! )

So there, that's what I came away with! I'm VERY glad that I was able to pack a flat, empty duffle in my luggage on the way out. ;)
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (summer shade)
Maybe I was a little too good at the Los Angeles garment district. Anyway, in a spirit of naughty mischief innocent curiosity, yesterday I checked out Fabric.com's current sale fabrics. I found very little to interest me, until I clicked on a set of Rayon Shirtings. And realized that the prints looks very familiar. As in I-know-I've-seen-this-in-a-vintage-catalog familiar. Squee!

So I have four yards of this on its way to me!  I love red, but have none of it in my vintage wardrobe.




Plus two more yards of the navy colorway, for a blouse.



And then on a whim, I got pretty much the last of this printed voile, thinking it looked somewhat 30s. Boo hiss, or cheer? And if cheer, what on earth should I do with it? :)

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (summer shade)
Maybe I was a little too good at the Los Angeles garment district. Anyway, in a spirit of naughty mischief innocent curiosity, yesterday I checked out Fabric.com's current sale fabrics. I found very little to interest me, until I clicked on a set of Rayon Shirtings. And realized that the prints looks very familiar. As in I-know-I've-seen-this-in-a-vintage-catalog familiar. Squee!

So I have four yards of this on its way to me!  I love red, but have none of it in my vintage wardrobe.




Plus two more yards of the navy colorway, for a blouse.



And then on a whim, I got pretty much the last of this printed voile, thinking it looked somewhat 30s. Boo hiss, or cheer? And if cheer, what on earth should I do with it? :)

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (wonderfulness)
I got tired of waffling about feedsack fabric. There's so much cute stuff out there, it's incredibly hard to choose. And this isn't a big-deal project. Remember the WWKD? thing - What Would Katherine Do?  She just does it! And that's how it gets done.

This one has all my favorite colors in it (well, grass green is better than lime green, but oh well), the price was one of the cheapest out there ($7), and it was a hefty piece for a feedsack (34" x 44").  I doubt I'll regret it, while I WILL regret wasting time when it's mid-July and I have nothing done.

 

Sometimes I think it looks 40s, and sometimes I think it looks late-50s-almost-mod-60s.  You know, tepee-shaped motels. :p  Oh, well!
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (wonderfulness)
I got tired of waffling about feedsack fabric. There's so much cute stuff out there, it's incredibly hard to choose. And this isn't a big-deal project. Remember the WWKD? thing - What Would Katherine Do?  She just does it! And that's how it gets done.

This one has all my favorite colors in it (well, grass green is better than lime green, but oh well), the price was one of the cheapest out there ($7), and it was a hefty piece for a feedsack (34" x 44").  I doubt I'll regret it, while I WILL regret wasting time when it's mid-July and I have nothing done.

 

Sometimes I think it looks 40s, and sometimes I think it looks late-50s-almost-mod-60s.  You know, tepee-shaped motels. :p  Oh, well!
nuranar: (annoyance)
I went ahead and cut out two shifts (one for me, one for M.) on Monday night. I'm going to seam the back on mine because I hate how much fabric is wasted with the S&S cutting layout. Grr.  When I do my 18th century shift, I'm using the cutting layout from Costume Close-Up. That looks so neat.

I ordered the Mantua Maker drawers pattern. I also threw in the long stays pattern in as well, because I've been eyeing it for years anyway. I guess she's based in Texas - better be, because I had to pay sales tax!

And I also bought white drill from Hobby Lobby to make short stays. I wish I'd know or thought to check there, back when I was getting supplies for Atlanta to make my 1860s corset. Then I'd have an all-white corset, instead of white sateen cover and unbleached drill inside! :p


I'm still up in the air about what to use for the petticoat skirts, though.  I'm using Pimatex for the bodices, but the skirts are holding me up.

While at Hobby Lobby, I checked their Kona cotton. It is the famed Robert Kaufman stuff, just like what I remembered at Joann, and I still don't like it! :/  I tried, I really tried. But it looks coarse, it feels heavy and non-drapey, and feels rough to me.  I'm sure it's great for quilting and more ordinary clothing, for sure.  Keep in mind that I've been working with nothing but pimatex and lawn and voile for a long while, too.  I went back to Dharma Trading Co., too, trying to find some more info. (Unfortunately, they didn't have batiste to compare, or buy.)

Pimatex:        3.7 oz/sq yd       thread count 133x72
Broadcloth:   3.5 oz/sq yd       thread count 133x72
Lawn:           2.5 oz/sq yd        thread count 90x88
Voile:            1.9 oz/sq yd       thread count 80x72
Muslin*:        4.0 oz/sq yd       thread count 78x78
Kona:            4.4 oz/sq yd       thread count 60x60

It's not just me being prejudiced; Kona really is both heavier and coarser than what I want to use for these petticoats. It's heavier and coarser (slightly) than even Dharma's "economy" muslin.  To be sure, that's a good thing when one needs a sturdy medium-weight cotton.  But not for Regency petticoats.

So I really don't want to use Kona.  I can use the Pimatex I have on hand, if it comes down to it, although I really want something not so crisp for the skirts.  I've got loads of fine voile, thanks to [livejournal.com profile] jaelie, but I'm afraid it's too light to really be effective.    I think batiste or lawn would be ideal. However, I've found it only for $8-10/yd.  Does anyone have any cheaper sources to suggest?  Besides Dharma, I've checked Martha Pullen, Farmhouse Fabrics, and Baltazor. Which last has $6/yd "Nainsook," sounding awesomely old-fashioned, but is supposedly lighter than batiste. Will it still be less translucent than voile?

I hate to sound a skinflint, but I'd really rather save a couple dollars a yard and spend them towards fine stockings or something. :D (Speaking of, are any of B&T's silk stockings a good idea for this?)
nuranar: (annoyance)
I went ahead and cut out two shifts (one for me, one for M.) on Monday night. I'm going to seam the back on mine because I hate how much fabric is wasted with the S&S cutting layout. Grr.  When I do my 18th century shift, I'm using the cutting layout from Costume Close-Up. That looks so neat.

I ordered the Mantua Maker drawers pattern. I also threw in the long stays pattern in as well, because I've been eyeing it for years anyway. I guess she's based in Texas - better be, because I had to pay sales tax!

And I also bought white drill from Hobby Lobby to make short stays. I wish I'd know or thought to check there, back when I was getting supplies for Atlanta to make my 1860s corset. Then I'd have an all-white corset, instead of white sateen cover and unbleached drill inside! :p


I'm still up in the air about what to use for the petticoat skirts, though.  I'm using Pimatex for the bodices, but the skirts are holding me up.

While at Hobby Lobby, I checked their Kona cotton. It is the famed Robert Kaufman stuff, just like what I remembered at Joann, and I still don't like it! :/  I tried, I really tried. But it looks coarse, it feels heavy and non-drapey, and feels rough to me.  I'm sure it's great for quilting and more ordinary clothing, for sure.  Keep in mind that I've been working with nothing but pimatex and lawn and voile for a long while, too.  I went back to Dharma Trading Co., too, trying to find some more info. (Unfortunately, they didn't have batiste to compare, or buy.)

Pimatex:        3.7 oz/sq yd       thread count 133x72
Broadcloth:   3.5 oz/sq yd       thread count 133x72
Lawn:           2.5 oz/sq yd        thread count 90x88
Voile:            1.9 oz/sq yd       thread count 80x72
Muslin*:        4.0 oz/sq yd       thread count 78x78
Kona:            4.4 oz/sq yd       thread count 60x60

It's not just me being prejudiced; Kona really is both heavier and coarser than what I want to use for these petticoats. It's heavier and coarser (slightly) than even Dharma's "economy" muslin.  To be sure, that's a good thing when one needs a sturdy medium-weight cotton.  But not for Regency petticoats.

So I really don't want to use Kona.  I can use the Pimatex I have on hand, if it comes down to it, although I really want something not so crisp for the skirts.  I've got loads of fine voile, thanks to [livejournal.com profile] jaelie, but I'm afraid it's too light to really be effective.    I think batiste or lawn would be ideal. However, I've found it only for $8-10/yd.  Does anyone have any cheaper sources to suggest?  Besides Dharma, I've checked Martha Pullen, Farmhouse Fabrics, and Baltazor. Which last has $6/yd "Nainsook," sounding awesomely old-fashioned, but is supposedly lighter than batiste. Will it still be less translucent than voile?

I hate to sound a skinflint, but I'd really rather save a couple dollars a yard and spend them towards fine stockings or something. :D (Speaking of, are any of B&T's silk stockings a good idea for this?)
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
But not together. Someone asked how I survive the heat. Survive? Just try to avoid being out in it.


The buttonholes on the green wrapper took a loooong time.  Seventeen (17) of them!!!  Sheesh, I didn't know I was that incompetent. It's not like I've never done them before.  Next on that project?  Seventeen (17) buttons to sew on!!!  Yay.  At least they're cute, caramel-colored vegetable ivory whistle buttons.

I've also been doing some vintage sewing.  Thanks to the gorgeous-and-talented [livejournal.com profile] fancyfrocks, I haz a playsuit pattern! I've been wanting to try some circa 1940 shorts for a while, so that was terrific.  Unfortunately after I traced everything off and modified it, I discovered I didn't have enough fabric. Those things take a lot of material.  Hmph.  But I ended up in Lewisville, waiting on Bubbles for an hour, last Friday, so I spent some time at the Hancock's and came away with some linen-cotton stuff in a good weight.  (Sheer shorts? No thanks.)  It's a very weird neutral color, too gray to be khaki but too green to be gray. I had a hard time finding thread.  But I cut them out Saturday and assembled Sunday and a little last night. I just have to finish up the hem and do buttons tonight. And fix the placket somehow. Does anyone have any tips for getting them smooth? They always give me such a time.

Also at Hancock's I got denim for my circa 1940 overalls.  It's good dark indigo, not blue-black, in a sturdy but not crazy-heavy weight.  The felled seams worked extremely well on the shorts, so I'm going to do them.  I also tested the halter top of my pattern to make sure it fits. It does, even the crossed straps!  Question: What thread should I use?  How traditional is the gold-colored thread? I think I'd like it, but I'm not sure if it's the right look for these.  And what about buttons?  There are seven or eight fastening the overalls up under the left arm, and two in back fasten the straps.  They'll be quite visible.  Dark blue, to hide on the denim, or metal? What type?

And further at Hancock's I got a lighter, smoother linen-cotton in a good light khaki; and at Joann, where I got thread, I came away with a black linen blend with a woven stripe, and an awesome brightish leaf/pea green linen blend.  The khaki skirt I need because my other khaki skirts (1) don't fit right because I didn't bother to draft my pattern right, (2) are obviously vintage/too full for everyday summer wear, and/or (3) too modern or casual for when I do want to be a bit vintage.  The black skirt will be fairly simple; I just need another black skirt, and I'm not waiting time on details for black fabric.  The khaki and the green, though, I'm not sure about.  I need to look through my pattern stash for some designs with interesting seams or cut and is flowy without being hip-enhancing. *g*  And not very pleated, at least for the khaki skirt, because linen-cotton does a terrible job of holding pleats.  The green might do better.  I do like that green color!


The heat continues, no surprise.  Yesterday? 105º.  Yep, new high for the year.  Today's high isn't finalized yet, but we've stood at 103º for the 4, 5, and 6 pm hourly recordings. Also a new 100+ streak, which should continue through Thursday.  We've got some chances for rain scheduled for the weekend, so that should drop us into the low 90s.

Edit: Yep, today was 104º.

  • YTD Days over 100º:            17
  • Current 100º Streak:               7
  • Longest 100º Streak:              7
  • YTD High Temperature:    105º

    I was thinking longingly last week of such things as soft sweaters, cozy flannel skirts, and warm tights. *g*  There's always a point, usually a couple weeks after either warm or cool weather has become firmly established, that I earnestly desire the opposite!  Then I just go on with what I'm stuck with.  ;)
  • nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
    But not together. Someone asked how I survive the heat. Survive? Just try to avoid being out in it.


    The buttonholes on the green wrapper took a loooong time.  Seventeen (17) of them!!!  Sheesh, I didn't know I was that incompetent. It's not like I've never done them before.  Next on that project?  Seventeen (17) buttons to sew on!!!  Yay.  At least they're cute, caramel-colored vegetable ivory whistle buttons.

    I've also been doing some vintage sewing.  Thanks to the gorgeous-and-talented [livejournal.com profile] fancyfrocks, I haz a playsuit pattern! I've been wanting to try some circa 1940 shorts for a while, so that was terrific.  Unfortunately after I traced everything off and modified it, I discovered I didn't have enough fabric. Those things take a lot of material.  Hmph.  But I ended up in Lewisville, waiting on Bubbles for an hour, last Friday, so I spent some time at the Hancock's and came away with some linen-cotton stuff in a good weight.  (Sheer shorts? No thanks.)  It's a very weird neutral color, too gray to be khaki but too green to be gray. I had a hard time finding thread.  But I cut them out Saturday and assembled Sunday and a little last night. I just have to finish up the hem and do buttons tonight. And fix the placket somehow. Does anyone have any tips for getting them smooth? They always give me such a time.

    Also at Hancock's I got denim for my circa 1940 overalls.  It's good dark indigo, not blue-black, in a sturdy but not crazy-heavy weight.  The felled seams worked extremely well on the shorts, so I'm going to do them.  I also tested the halter top of my pattern to make sure it fits. It does, even the crossed straps!  Question: What thread should I use?  How traditional is the gold-colored thread? I think I'd like it, but I'm not sure if it's the right look for these.  And what about buttons?  There are seven or eight fastening the overalls up under the left arm, and two in back fasten the straps.  They'll be quite visible.  Dark blue, to hide on the denim, or metal? What type?

    And further at Hancock's I got a lighter, smoother linen-cotton in a good light khaki; and at Joann, where I got thread, I came away with a black linen blend with a woven stripe, and an awesome brightish leaf/pea green linen blend.  The khaki skirt I need because my other khaki skirts (1) don't fit right because I didn't bother to draft my pattern right, (2) are obviously vintage/too full for everyday summer wear, and/or (3) too modern or casual for when I do want to be a bit vintage.  The black skirt will be fairly simple; I just need another black skirt, and I'm not waiting time on details for black fabric.  The khaki and the green, though, I'm not sure about.  I need to look through my pattern stash for some designs with interesting seams or cut and is flowy without being hip-enhancing. *g*  And not very pleated, at least for the khaki skirt, because linen-cotton does a terrible job of holding pleats.  The green might do better.  I do like that green color!


    The heat continues, no surprise.  Yesterday? 105º.  Yep, new high for the year.  Today's high isn't finalized yet, but we've stood at 103º for the 4, 5, and 6 pm hourly recordings. Also a new 100+ streak, which should continue through Thursday.  We've got some chances for rain scheduled for the weekend, so that should drop us into the low 90s.

    Edit: Yep, today was 104º.

  • YTD Days over 100º:            17
  • Current 100º Streak:               7
  • Longest 100º Streak:              7
  • YTD High Temperature:    105º

    I was thinking longingly last week of such things as soft sweaters, cozy flannel skirts, and warm tights. *g*  There's always a point, usually a couple weeks after either warm or cool weather has become firmly established, that I earnestly desire the opposite!  Then I just go on with what I'm stuck with.  ;)
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