Ugh.

I just finished Round 2 with the robe de style bodice pattern. It was hotly contested, but I think I will be judged the victor. Proof will come with Muslin 3.1, of course.

The bodice front didn't have too many issues. I noted where to swing the bust dart (expected) and I shortened the lower end of the waist darts (also expected).  I also took a tuck in the armhole, angling toward the center front, so I'll be able to adjust the armhole and neck angle to eliminate it. I also re-drew the side seam, since it was canted toward the back. But now I'm reconsidering that. I slit it up the new line, to see if that would release some of the back pulling (more of that anon), but it really didn't. It didn't even hang open more than 1/8". And since the dress opens along the left side, having that opening toward the back would give a more streamlined look from the front.

Anyway, the real problem was the back. I haphazardly sized the whole thing up (lengthening 2" and adding 2" width). The back was HUGE at the neckline (which is a scoop at this point), a little big at the waist, and once again pulling and drawing up below the waist. Better than yesterday's, but still bad. So I took in the center back with a huge wedge - a good 1.25" at the neckline, tapering to nothing below the waist - and it helped a bit. But there was still "pooling" at the back waist.

I looked up swayback adjustments briefly, but I really didn't want to go that route since it messes with the seamless center back. One of the first hits listed a host of other issues, including hip fullness, which I suspect is the primary issue. I both shortened and took in the back waist darts, which helped the bodice flare a bit more. Then I stay-stitched the back neckline and drew it up slightly (I know I should have done that first - bad me) and also took up the neckline corner of the shoulder straps. That mostly fixed it, or at least enough that it just needs a whole new muslin to see what happens next.

This is totally my least favorite part of sewing!

If this still fails, I'll just have to add a back waist seam. It'll be invisible behind the upper edge of the beading, and I'll be able to cut a peplum-like shape that fits me. I'd probably be able to smooth the back darts out, too. So I have an alternate plan. I can't afford to spend forever researching complicated alterations.

But I'm going to try once more to make the darted version fit. It IS a period pattern, by a Lanvin person no less. I'm doing my best not to over-fit it; but a pattern that fits an extreme figure has to be either very loose or very fitted. The design of this dress calls for a dress that's more fitted than not. What else can I do?

I think this will work.

Muslin 3.1 actually did end up too small; I blame the stretchiness of the Muslin 2 remnant material after 4+ try-ons.  But even with that, the fit on Muslin 3.1 was vastly improved. The back in particular looks quite good. Not perfect; but I've really done all I can do there without taking another approach entirely, and I have no desire to start over. And honestly, at this point I'm ready to move on and make the beading templates over it. I can tweak the bodice itself if needed after the beading is complete.

Changes included correcting the shoulder seam angle again, and taking out a dart in the back. I'll need to add some material to the back armhole as well since it was a bit too far back. Release the back darts by 1/8" apiece. Adding material on the center front to fix the overall snugness, which means moving the front darts over so they're roughly still centered. Mostly simple, and I'll make another muslin to make sure it's still tolerable.

Whew, I'm tired. I need to go eat something, and then do some cleaning. I'm hosting the end-of-year party for Impressions after our concert tomorrow.