nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
Do you have a scalloped fabric punch that I may borrow? I've been searching and it looks like once again, no one is selling them. I'll pay shipping both ways, if you can pop it into the mail!

This is brought on because I've been studying the Jesuit/Brunswick pictures again. I'm seeing a lot of variation in the fronts; a few clearly button, and a few clearly have a jacket/vest type construction (not always the ones with buttons!), and quite a few seem to have solid fronts with a CF opening. The height of the front can be either low or high to the neck, and more than one appears to fasten to the neck but is worn open for a formal portrait.  For trimming, self-fabric trim is by far the most common; one may have fly fringe in the same color as the gown, and one has white gauze on the dress. Contrasting hood linings aren't unusual (either in white or another color). And a good number have white or light-colored frills at neck and/or partially down the front opening and/or at the wrists.

Back to the self trim: Mostly it's in vertical lines down the bodice, either straight or serpentine. Those with the skirt visible often have a straight line of trim down the edge of the gown. (I remember only one gown with visible skirt/petticoat trim more extensive than that.) The lines seem to be more vertical and less curvy the later the portrait is; and of course the sleeve ruffles get a little smaller.

My sprigged fabric is, I think, more typical of an earlier decade; the motifs sort of line up, but there's really no stripe element like the in the 1770s. Since the Jesuit was more popular in the earlier years, I'm going to pretend this was an earlier garment (older fabric, lots of trim) - say, my mother's - that I've updated with a less flamboyant trim design and freshened with new ruffles.  And a bigger hood, maybe... I could use some other fabric on the back of the petticoat and pretend I used it to make a bigger hood for the fashionable 1780s hair. And trimmed it with excess trim from the gown itself. ;)

But anyway, it would be way easier and way prettier if I can do this trim with a scalloped punch. I understand that the punching doesn't take long; I'd just need to know how many strips and how wide to make them, so I won't be quite ready tomorrow. ;)

Anyone?
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)

I spent a rather frustrating Wednesday evening. I did wear the stays around, which was good for them. But I broke the tape lace again. (This is developing into a very bad habit!) I scaled up and printed some patterns, which was good. I also estimated yardage for a few purchases. But I got myself worn out trying to decide how to make a period-appropriate 1916 petticoat (i.e. one that helps the skirt stick out) with a minimum of new fabric and work. (The catalogs full of silk taffeta petticoats with rows of tiny frills and bigger flounces and cutwork were not helping.) (I think I've decided just to settle for pimatex with three flounces [of pimatex or stiff organdy] and starch from there.) And also trying to estimate what lace I need for the princess slip and the envelope chemise. Ugh. This stage is just paralyzing!

So I need to make a master list, for each piece of each outfit if necessary, outlining specifically what patterns I need, what I will use, and what I need to buy/source.


1780s white silk Romney
Source: Portrait of Mrs. Moody
Materials have: white silk, pink silk, fine cotton for ruffles, linen lining
Materials need: button forms for cuffs
Pattern: Fit a basic 1780s block, starting from 1780s gown in POF p. 40, then altering for this to a straight front and back waist and fuller front with tucked (?) casing. 

1780s sprigged silk
Source: _____________ (several possibilities - separate brainstorming post)
Materials have: sprigged silk, linen lining, ivory striped sheer silk for ruffles
Materials need: trim?
Pattern: ______________ (also part of the brainstorming! I've never done a sacque-back gown and I'm getting scared)

1810s yellow muslin
Source: here and here
Materials have: yellow muslin, lining, cording
Materials need: nope
Pattern: hopefully something with the wide-set sleeves c. 1815. Either start with my white muslin pattern from years ago and try to fill in the armhole a bit, or use (a) 1818 pelisse from POF or (b) 1816 evening dress from Cut of Women's Clothes. Maybe do like [profile] the_aristocat and just free-hand trace it from my pattern and modify according to the two samples. ;)

also needed:
* 1810s shift 1 - nearly finished
* 1810s shift 2 - cut out, needs assembly
* 1810s petticoat (shorter and fuller, maybe with cord in hem) - use Pimatex
 Materials need: cotton cord for hem
 Pattern: narrower version of Skirt D from Hunnisett

1910s Envelope Chemise
Source: article from [personal profile] fancyfrocks's magazine, dated 1916
Materials have:
Materials need: batiste from Farmhouse Fabrics; __ yds various lace
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1910s Corset
Source: none really; reference above article
Materials have: white brocade coutil; garters (search "hose supporters" on ebay for the wide ones), lace
Materials need: busk, boning, corset lace
Pattern: [personal profile] jenthompson's pattern

1910s Brassiere
Source: article again, confirming what was worn in 1916
Materials have: probably Pimatex
Materials need: boning (probably)
Pattern: article/pattern for hooked brassiere, from [personal profile] jenthompson

1910s Princess Slip
Source: n/a
Materials have: some lace
Materials need: batiste from Farmhouse Fabrics; 2.5 yds narrow beading for minimum
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1910s Petticoat
Source: catalogs from [personal profile] fancyfrocks, showing the crisp taffeta petticoats necessary to hold out the flared skirts of 1916
Materials have: Pimatex cotton, super stiff "cambric" (have 2 1/4 yds, 39" wide)
Materials need: 18 yds edging if I do three frills and edge them all, stiff organdy from Pure Silks if it's better than Pimatex or there's not enough cambric
Pattern: princess slip pattern as base, using circular flounce; mount flounces on it

1910s Empire Negligee
Source: May Manton pattern
Materials: white crossbarred muslin, pink silk ribbon & lace trim unused from 1860s sheer
Materials need: none
Pattern: same as the source

1916 Blue Sprig Dress
Source: middle dress, from a 1916 catalog owned by [personal profile] fancyfrocks
Materials: semisheer white cotton with woven openwork and woven dots, printed with a blue sprig pattern, very similar to the catalog picture. Blue silk taffeta left over from the Star dress for the sash and buttons. Some nice cotton for collar and cuffs.
Materials need: pleated net for collar and cuffs trimming
Pattern: waist and skirt patterns from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1920s Bandeau
Source: n/a
Materials have: vintage pink medium-heavy rayon satin from antique mall
Materials need: 3+ yards 1/2" ribbon for straps; 2" wide elastic (pink if possible)
Pattern: Women's Wear of the 1920s

1920s Teddy
Source: Les modes, showing this as the most common/fashionable undies
Materials have: some lace; white silk ribbon
Materials need: white crêpe de chine from Dharma
Pattern: Women's Wear of the 1920s

1920s Pannier
Source: shape from model image
Materials have: narrow steel hoop wire
Materials need: black silk organza from Dharma
Pattern: Costume Close-Up and 1920s example with similar a-line shape

1920s Navy Beaded Robe de Style
Source: 1 and 2
Materials have: navy silk; cotton for lining
Materials need: beads, cotton net, organza for lining (maybe)
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks and Women's Wear of the 1920s (Lanvin copy)

1940s Open Midriff Evening Gown
Source: Lauren Bacall, To Have and Have Not
Materials have: heavy-ish rayon crepe in dark teal blue
Materials need: metal ring (try Home Depot); hopefully fresh tropical flowers for hair
Pattern: Draping from ebay image and basic blouse and skirt patterns from stash

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
I noticed that the Costume College "dress code" removed the weasel wording about hoops and bustles in class; instead, they requested none at all. (They didn't mention big hats or bonnets, which I remember used to be in the wording!)  And that brought to mind that although I've planned a lot for the robe de style, and some 18th century things like the Jesuit, I really hadn't planned out a schedule.

Tiki Chic pool party (Thursday evening) - 1940s midriff evening ensemble
Classes (Friday day) - ???
Ice Cream Social (Friday evening) - ???
Classes (Saturday day) - ???
Red Carpet/Gala (Saturday evening - beaded robe de style
Sunday Undies Redux (Sunday morning) - 1910s peignoir
Classes (Sunday day) - 1916 blue sprigged gown

Two other outfits are planned
* Embroidered silk Jesuit
* White silk Romney gown

Obviously I need to (a) figure out one or two more outfits and (b) figure out when to wear the ones I have.  It would be a nice bonus to coordinate with others a bit, at least for time period. So far, I know that the_aristocat is wearing a seaside bustle gown for the Social, but that's it.

Of things in the stash, I got some lemony cotton lawn last year for a Regency dress. That would be fun to wear with my yellow AD slippers. But I don't really have an idea of what I want it to look like. I'm feeling it should be simple, but not TOO boring.  I've also got the blue striped sarcenet, which I want to use to copy that blue striped gown in the Danish (I think?) museum. But that probably will take more work.

I don't want to load up on intensive gowns; did that last year and barely survived. And I got a much better head start last year than this year. The spring has been so busy!
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
I just said that I'm lousy at round-up posts. But I am good at planning posts. Planning posts actually help me organize my thoughts and map out a course of action, whereas round-up posts are a list of short-comings - it's always less than I wanted in quantity and quality - and serve no practical purpose.  That sounded pretty cynical! Maybe I overstated the case a bit. Round-up posts would help a bit for reference purposes, come to think of it.

Anyway, I do need to do some planning. Last year I had the most elaborate planning ever, for two reasons: I had ambitious costuming plans with a tricky travel schedule, and the Historical Sew Fortnightly gave structure and motivation.  The results were mixed. I did accomplish most of what I wanted, but I had the tightest/most stressful pre-Costume College summer yet.  Plus, the HSF resulted in a lot of projects that were good, useful things, but took time away from my primary sewing goals. When the schedule got tight, many of them were set aside unfinished. I'm usually pretty good about minimal UFOs (un-started objects are a different matter), so this is also stressful for me. And the piecemeal challenge announcements made it more challenging and stressful to re-assess and try to fit in the big projects.

So you'd think the 2014 HSF would be a stupid idea for me. Nonetheless, I'm undecided. Moving the date up to 1945 is a huge help, because a BIG part of my fabric and notions stash is WWII-appropriate. And since I keep attending reenactments with widely varied weather, plus vintage shows, I can get good use out of a 1940s wardrobe.

But I still have ambitious plans for other costuming:

* Beaded robe de style
* 1780s white wool stays
* Jesuit (already have fabric!)
* 1780s white silk gown
* Quilted Brunswick (haven't found the fabric, so this may be shelved for a while)
* 1916 ensemble

Maybe I'll wait on making an HSF decision until she announces the rest of the year's challenges.  Honestly, while the beading is an unknown quantity at this point, I still don't think it'll take forever.  The 18th-century stuff shouldn't be too terribly difficult, either, particularly if I let the Brunswick slide for a while. I can probably make the stays in a reasonable amount of time. And once I make a new basic bodice and sleeve, most of the rest shouldn't be too hard. Draping the Jesuit/Brunswick back will be interesting, but there's lots of info out there.

Since I mentioned the Brunswick: I want to make it in a medium/light blue. The quilted examples are all in satin. $40/yd satin is totally out of the question for this, particularly since it will be stuck full of holes and stiffened as it's quilted; but I know there are cheaper silk satins. So far I've found mostly whites, with maybe a pink.  White would be accurate (both English examples are white) but I'm already doing one white gown, and darn it, I want blue! I've done enough dyeing to know that it's not for me, but that doesn't seem to be the case for all of you. So, just on the chance: Would anyone be willing to dye white satin blue for me? It should be a straightforward dye job, since I want just a straight shade of blue - no green or turquoise, nothing to match. And I would definitely pay for the job.

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (fall)

When I first saw Kendra's Brunswick three years ago, I was fascinated and puzzled. I'd never heard of such a thing before, but it sounded really neat and unusual. One of those "I wish I could have one" thoughts that stays with you although you don't make real plans for it. Then Katherine made hers, and there was a minor convocation of them at Williamsburg. I loved them. But this time, I think my knowledge and skills are sufficient to tackle it!

So I dived into research again. I found two primary informational sources online: Kendra's page on Brunswicks and Jesuits, and Brunswick jackets on Diary of a Mantua Maker. There are also a few Pinterest boards. But mostly I did a lot of searching of general 18th century images, and collecting possibles on my own board.

I immediately ran into the issue that the vast majority of information and pictures are 1760s, while I want to do 1780s. For a variety of reasons, but mostly that there are other things in the 1780s that interest me, but little about the 1760s.  Both Kendra and Cole took the B&T Brunswick class; their information, coming from the same source, seemed to imply that the Brunswick continued in popularity into the 1780s. But there was little indication of any differences from the 1760s ones, except for the lack of sleeve ruffles.  I got hung up on trying to prove that, though, for quite a while.

Lots more this way! )


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nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
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