nuranar: (Klink)
I've been making steady progress on some things. Over the weekend I mostly finished up/made the 1910s corset, the 1910s brassiere, and the 1920s teddy.  I'm putting off some fiddly hand sewing on the corset and brassiere, but they're otherwise done; and the teddy is totally done.  The brassiere, unfortunately, can be added to the list of Undergarments I Have Made Too Small. It's not unwearable; but I resized the pattern it for a waist/bust that the finished corset (and me) don't actually have. And it actually fits, and very supportively, but I suspect that the line is a little too high for the period. Weird problem to have, huh? ;) Anyway, I angled the hook and eye tape for a little more slack. It's ugly, but useable. When I've got the chemise done I'll put up pictures.

Anyway, that was Saturday's project. Today's was the teddy. Once again it took longer than I was anticipating; but I'm really pleased with it. I did a bunch of new techniques for the first time:

* sewing on silk crepe de chine (surprisingly not bad; much better than chiffon, china silk, or heavier crepe)
* using a (very!) narrow hemmer foot sewing machine attachment, plus on silk and on curves (not hard, just go slowly and re-adjust as necessary)
* Zigzagging lace edges together to made wider lengths
* Making lace and ribbon rosettes

It's rather cute. Fits like silliness, but that's how 1920s stuff works unless you're built like a fashion drawing!

Next up? Prepping the 18th century shift pieces for handwork during the convention at the end of the week. Then either fitting the princess slip pattern, now that I have corset and brassiere, and working on that, the chemise, and the extra petticoat; or making up some beading templates and getting that started. Hmm... I think that may wait until after the convention. I won't have a long enough day/evening to really dig into it, and I don't want to be rushed or tired like I usually am for evening sewing.
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
... I think I have a good robe de style pattern.

And I am going to do something ELSE for the rest of the day, like the 1910s corset and brassiere. Whew!
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
I mean, I'll try to post every day. ;)

Uh... what so far...

I'magonna finish [profile] rvqavalon's petticoat today, and pack it up and the green batiste to ship back tomorrow. (I'll also get the envelope chemise printed on wide paper while I'm out.) I also printed out some closeups of the beading patterns on the robe de style. So the plan for the weekend:

1. Finish petticoat.
2. Box up petticoat and batiste.
3. Take to the post office.
4. Get the envelope chemise printed.
5. Make the 1920s bandeau.
6. Fit the robe de style bodice.
7. Draft templates for the beading areas.
8. Sketch at least one beading pattern.
9. Make the pannier.
10. Order the rest of the crepe de chine and some extra lawn from Dharma.
11. Draft the skirt.
12. Make the 1910s brassiere.
13. Assemble the 1910s corset (as far as possible until the busk/boning arrives).
14. Learn the new sewing machine feet: ruffler, tucker, and hemstitcher.
15. Make 1810s strapped petticoat from pimatex.
16. Start on beading a test piece.
17. Gather pieces for 1780s shift and cut neckline.
18. Wait to finish corset before drafting/cutting the princess slip, the petticoat, and the negligee.

...um, not all of that is for the weekend. But this is what we call, in my line of work, The Path Forward. Feels good to have it written down!


In other news, I'm starving. And it's 4:30 PM. Time to raid the refrigerator and not spoil my dinner.
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)

I spent a rather frustrating Wednesday evening. I did wear the stays around, which was good for them. But I broke the tape lace again. (This is developing into a very bad habit!) I scaled up and printed some patterns, which was good. I also estimated yardage for a few purchases. But I got myself worn out trying to decide how to make a period-appropriate 1916 petticoat (i.e. one that helps the skirt stick out) with a minimum of new fabric and work. (The catalogs full of silk taffeta petticoats with rows of tiny frills and bigger flounces and cutwork were not helping.) (I think I've decided just to settle for pimatex with three flounces [of pimatex or stiff organdy] and starch from there.) And also trying to estimate what lace I need for the princess slip and the envelope chemise. Ugh. This stage is just paralyzing!

So I need to make a master list, for each piece of each outfit if necessary, outlining specifically what patterns I need, what I will use, and what I need to buy/source.


1780s white silk Romney
Source: Portrait of Mrs. Moody
Materials have: white silk, pink silk, fine cotton for ruffles, linen lining
Materials need: button forms for cuffs
Pattern: Fit a basic 1780s block, starting from 1780s gown in POF p. 40, then altering for this to a straight front and back waist and fuller front with tucked (?) casing. 

1780s sprigged silk
Source: _____________ (several possibilities - separate brainstorming post)
Materials have: sprigged silk, linen lining, ivory striped sheer silk for ruffles
Materials need: trim?
Pattern: ______________ (also part of the brainstorming! I've never done a sacque-back gown and I'm getting scared)

1810s yellow muslin
Source: here and here
Materials have: yellow muslin, lining, cording
Materials need: nope
Pattern: hopefully something with the wide-set sleeves c. 1815. Either start with my white muslin pattern from years ago and try to fill in the armhole a bit, or use (a) 1818 pelisse from POF or (b) 1816 evening dress from Cut of Women's Clothes. Maybe do like [profile] the_aristocat and just free-hand trace it from my pattern and modify according to the two samples. ;)

also needed:
* 1810s shift 1 - nearly finished
* 1810s shift 2 - cut out, needs assembly
* 1810s petticoat (shorter and fuller, maybe with cord in hem) - use Pimatex
 Materials need: cotton cord for hem
 Pattern: narrower version of Skirt D from Hunnisett

1910s Envelope Chemise
Source: article from [personal profile] fancyfrocks's magazine, dated 1916
Materials have:
Materials need: batiste from Farmhouse Fabrics; __ yds various lace
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1910s Corset
Source: none really; reference above article
Materials have: white brocade coutil; garters (search "hose supporters" on ebay for the wide ones), lace
Materials need: busk, boning, corset lace
Pattern: [personal profile] jenthompson's pattern

1910s Brassiere
Source: article again, confirming what was worn in 1916
Materials have: probably Pimatex
Materials need: boning (probably)
Pattern: article/pattern for hooked brassiere, from [personal profile] jenthompson

1910s Princess Slip
Source: n/a
Materials have: some lace
Materials need: batiste from Farmhouse Fabrics; 2.5 yds narrow beading for minimum
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1910s Petticoat
Source: catalogs from [personal profile] fancyfrocks, showing the crisp taffeta petticoats necessary to hold out the flared skirts of 1916
Materials have: Pimatex cotton, super stiff "cambric" (have 2 1/4 yds, 39" wide)
Materials need: 18 yds edging if I do three frills and edge them all, stiff organdy from Pure Silks if it's better than Pimatex or there's not enough cambric
Pattern: princess slip pattern as base, using circular flounce; mount flounces on it

1910s Empire Negligee
Source: May Manton pattern
Materials: white crossbarred muslin, pink silk ribbon & lace trim unused from 1860s sheer
Materials need: none
Pattern: same as the source

1916 Blue Sprig Dress
Source: middle dress, from a 1916 catalog owned by [personal profile] fancyfrocks
Materials: semisheer white cotton with woven openwork and woven dots, printed with a blue sprig pattern, very similar to the catalog picture. Blue silk taffeta left over from the Star dress for the sash and buttons. Some nice cotton for collar and cuffs.
Materials need: pleated net for collar and cuffs trimming
Pattern: waist and skirt patterns from [personal profile] fancyfrocks

1920s Bandeau
Source: n/a
Materials have: vintage pink medium-heavy rayon satin from antique mall
Materials need: 3+ yards 1/2" ribbon for straps; 2" wide elastic (pink if possible)
Pattern: Women's Wear of the 1920s

1920s Teddy
Source: Les modes, showing this as the most common/fashionable undies
Materials have: some lace; white silk ribbon
Materials need: white crêpe de chine from Dharma
Pattern: Women's Wear of the 1920s

1920s Pannier
Source: shape from model image
Materials have: narrow steel hoop wire
Materials need: black silk organza from Dharma
Pattern: Costume Close-Up and 1920s example with similar a-line shape

1920s Navy Beaded Robe de Style
Source: 1 and 2
Materials have: navy silk; cotton for lining
Materials need: beads, cotton net, organza for lining (maybe)
Pattern: pattern from [personal profile] fancyfrocks and Women's Wear of the 1920s (Lanvin copy)

1940s Open Midriff Evening Gown
Source: Lauren Bacall, To Have and Have Not
Materials have: heavy-ish rayon crepe in dark teal blue
Materials need: metal ring (try Home Depot); hopefully fresh tropical flowers for hair
Pattern: Draping from ebay image and basic blouse and skirt patterns from stash

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (worry)
Status, shall we?

1. 1940s playsuit

Done! Except for the hem in the skirt, and that I need my mother to mark for me. She hates marking my hems, so that might take a while. ;)

I've also got my eye on some white-frame sunglasses. I like my yellow celluloid ones with blue lenses, but the white ones would be particularly right for this outfit.
And I've got a good straw hat as well. I might replace the much-faded scarf with something else.  Anyone got a scrap of white chiffon or an old scarf they want to get rid of?


2. Star dress

- Overskirt (organza) and underskirt (taffeta) cut out and in the assembly process.
- Bodice cut out and ready to begin assembly.
- Sleeve mockup made and approved, with minor modification. Need to make final pattern.

I need to:
* Finish the sleeve mockup
* Order more organza for sleeves; I have a yard left for for the bertha.
* Order Dresden foil stars. That means I need to decide on the final design. I won't attach them until I get to California, though; either at [livejournal.com profile] fancyfrocks's house or later at the hotel itself.
* Make shoe rosettes and wire headdress.

What do you think of the Star wand? I suspect I might find it annoying to carry around, but if it's important to the "look" I can be a big girl. :p


3. 1915 dress

I'm pretty much nowhere with this, except that the base patterns are enlarged and I have a few corset pieces cut out for the first mockup. I had a setback two weeks ago when I discovered that Needle & Thread had sent me 1.5" webbing instead of 2" webbing. At this point I really don't want to deal with cutting and finishing yards of 2" fabric strips, so I found some 2" cotton twill tape from an ebay seller. That arrived Monday.  I really really need to get this to work quickly.  I'm so nervous!!!

I do have a lot of lawn, and I traced off and added height to the combinations pattern. (3" below the waist and 1" above!) That's the one piece I'm excited about right now. It's a neat design, and looks kind of fun to assemble.

As for the dress itself, I'm pretty much scared about this. I've got a base pattern from PoF that I think will work fairly well, but this is basically the biggest free-handing job I've ever done. I hate uncertainty!  I hate to admit it, but I've been running through other options in case this is total fail or I simply run out of time.

I did decide what to do about stockings. My old "traditional" ballet tights are very pale pink with sewn seams, and I think they would look very good with a white dress. They're definitely opaque, and definitely not silk, but I think the look will be better than obvious modern white tights.  I hate to ruin them by cutting them up for stockings. But they were used for 3 years, they've been in a VERY hot attic for 10 years since, and they're by no means irreplaceable.

The hat... I know I can do this, and it will be fun. But I've got to get everything else done first, and then I'm afraid I'll have to skimp on the hat. :(



Now, for shoes.

Ironically, the Star dress was the easiest. Blue silk boots done right aren't an option for this. And because 1860s is my Accuracy Home, I won't be happy faking something up with modern boots. I know too much!  But I did find white satin ballet slippers that I can approve of. They lack the super-square toe (simply not to be found apart from reproductions), but the material is good and they have full soles of good suede.  They'll also look very cute with blue rosettes. Maybe with a gold star in the middle. :)


I've got options for the 1940s playsuit, too.  I already have from black Corazon sandals from Remix; they're very cute. And a couple of basic pairs of flat leather-strap sandals that will work. But I found a couple espadrilles options on ebay, too:
Olive green flat canvas espadrilles
Bronze sequins beads espadrilles
Opinions, please!

The 1915 dress is the hardest. Early 20th century shoes are characterized by graceful heels, pointed toes, and high vamps.  The heels aren't too hard to find, and pointed toes are possible, but high vamps are vanishingly rare.  And since I've always been picky about shoes being right, this is driving me crazy.
"Court shoes" for ballroom dance are actually very close. But maybe it's the searches I've been running, but I'm finding very little that's not discontinued.
These look about the best for now.
These look pretty good, too.
I really like these, although they're a bit low on the sides; but the price scares me.

And if I'm going to spend that much, I go back to this pair from etsy. In MY SIZE.
Edwardian 'Butterscotch Baby' Leather Louis Heel

If I do more Edwardian (which I'd like to) these might be really good to have. White or pink satin shoes won't be too good with anything but light evening wear or really summery dresses, like the one I'm making now. Financially, I'm able to do the etsy ones; but it's a serious decision, and I really want advice on the way to go.
nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (worry)
Status, shall we?

1. 1940s playsuit

Done! Except for the hem in the skirt, and that I need my mother to mark for me. She hates marking my hems, so that might take a while. ;)

I've also got my eye on some white-frame sunglasses. I like my yellow celluloid ones with blue lenses, but the white ones would be particularly right for this outfit.
And I've got a good straw hat as well. I might replace the much-faded scarf with something else.  Anyone got a scrap of white chiffon or an old scarf they want to get rid of?


2. Star dress

- Overskirt (organza) and underskirt (taffeta) cut out and in the assembly process.
- Bodice cut out and ready to begin assembly.
- Sleeve mockup made and approved, with minor modification. Need to make final pattern.

I need to:
* Finish the sleeve mockup
* Order more organza for sleeves; I have a yard left for for the bertha.
* Order Dresden foil stars. That means I need to decide on the final design. I won't attach them until I get to California, though; either at [livejournal.com profile] fancyfrocks's house or later at the hotel itself.
* Make shoe rosettes and wire headdress.

What do you think of the Star wand? I suspect I might find it annoying to carry around, but if it's important to the "look" I can be a big girl. :p


3. 1915 dress

I'm pretty much nowhere with this, except that the base patterns are enlarged and I have a few corset pieces cut out for the first mockup. I had a setback two weeks ago when I discovered that Needle & Thread had sent me 1.5" webbing instead of 2" webbing. At this point I really don't want to deal with cutting and finishing yards of 2" fabric strips, so I found some 2" cotton twill tape from an ebay seller. That arrived Monday.  I really really need to get this to work quickly.  I'm so nervous!!!

I do have a lot of lawn, and I traced off and added height to the combinations pattern. (3" below the waist and 1" above!) That's the one piece I'm excited about right now. It's a neat design, and looks kind of fun to assemble.

As for the dress itself, I'm pretty much scared about this. I've got a base pattern from PoF that I think will work fairly well, but this is basically the biggest free-handing job I've ever done. I hate uncertainty!  I hate to admit it, but I've been running through other options in case this is total fail or I simply run out of time.

I did decide what to do about stockings. My old "traditional" ballet tights are very pale pink with sewn seams, and I think they would look very good with a white dress. They're definitely opaque, and definitely not silk, but I think the look will be better than obvious modern white tights.  I hate to ruin them by cutting them up for stockings. But they were used for 3 years, they've been in a VERY hot attic for 10 years since, and they're by no means irreplaceable.

The hat... I know I can do this, and it will be fun. But I've got to get everything else done first, and then I'm afraid I'll have to skimp on the hat. :(



Now, for shoes.

Ironically, the Star dress was the easiest. Blue silk boots done right aren't an option for this. And because 1860s is my Accuracy Home, I won't be happy faking something up with modern boots. I know too much!  But I did find white satin ballet slippers that I can approve of. They lack the super-square toe (simply not to be found apart from reproductions), but the material is good and they have full soles of good suede.  They'll also look very cute with blue rosettes. Maybe with a gold star in the middle. :)


I've got options for the 1940s playsuit, too.  I already have from black Corazon sandals from Remix; they're very cute. And a couple of basic pairs of flat leather-strap sandals that will work. But I found a couple espadrilles options on ebay, too:
Olive green flat canvas espadrilles
Bronze sequins beads espadrilles
Opinions, please!

The 1915 dress is the hardest. Early 20th century shoes are characterized by graceful heels, pointed toes, and high vamps.  The heels aren't too hard to find, and pointed toes are possible, but high vamps are vanishingly rare.  And since I've always been picky about shoes being right, this is driving me crazy.
"Court shoes" for ballroom dance are actually very close. But maybe it's the searches I've been running, but I'm finding very little that's not discontinued.
These look about the best for now.
These look pretty good, too.
I really like these, although they're a bit low on the sides; but the price scares me.

And if I'm going to spend that much, I go back to this pair from etsy. In MY SIZE.
Edwardian 'Butterscotch Baby' Leather Louis Heel

If I do more Edwardian (which I'd like to) these might be really good to have. White or pink satin shoes won't be too good with anything but light evening wear or really summery dresses, like the one I'm making now. Financially, I'm able to do the etsy ones; but it's a serious decision, and I really want advice on the way to go.

Profile

nuranar: Hortense Bonaparte. La reine Hortense sous une tonnelle à Aix-les-Bains (1813) by Antoine Jean Duclaux. (Default)
nuranar

July 2017

S M T W T F S
      1
2345678
9101112 131415
16171819202122
23242526272829
3031     

Come, Follow Me

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated 19 October 2017 10:40 am
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios