Talk me back down off the ledge...

[nuranar]

... AKA I have more questions about stays. :)

Digression: I feeling like I'm coming across either super needy/ignorant, or super perfectionist. I honestly don't feel either way. I just had a pretty rough time with my first set of stays. So now as I'm identifying the specific parts that I do struggle with, and asking for information on those when necessary.  I haven't asked about fitting or hand sewing, for example (except for thread and needles), because I know what to do there.

I cut out the "blobs" of fabric for all layers except the innermost lining. They probably weren't blobbish enough - didn't I mention I'm fanatical about Saving Fabric? - but there's no less than 0.7" seam allowance anywhere.  Then from the scraps I put together a couple of samples, trying out both marking with chalk and using different channel widths.  Based on that, I penciled in the caning layout on the pattern pieces. It's a mix of the inspiration (adjustable tape strap stays from McCord) and the_aristocat's 1780s stays. I love the look of the McCord stays, but the layout for some pieces really depends on single pieces of flexible whalebone instead of caning. Also, my caning is pretty lightweight, so I didn't want to err on the light side.

I ended up with a layout that I really like, and I'm confident will work. I have some lingering concerns about my caning, including channel width, plus how to use chalk.

You who use chalk, how do you make sure it's perfectly accurate? I'm using a piece of blue tailor's chalk and any one of several standard rulers.  In my experience, channel width is vital: too tight, and I'm bending and breaking my caning trying to get it in; too loose, and the stays lose stiffness. 1/16" or 1/32" can make a difference.  Besides that, chalk by definition does not make a sharp line. Or only does if you sharpen it every few lines.  And third, you can't draw RIGHT next to the edge of a ruler. I may think I've drawn 4 1/4" channels, but the total width of the channels measure 1 1/8" or more instead of exactly 1".   I have a narrow, very thin clear ruler that helps, but the constantly-increasing width of the chalk still throws it off.  The marks are still visible, but I used a mechanical pencil for marking on my first stays and it was accurate. How do you get accuracy?

First thing. I wanted the narrower caning, so I ordered 3 mm half oval. It's the perfect width; but also rather lightweight. I think several of you have whittled down wider caning, but I have ZERO interest in doing that. My test swatches indicated that it was sturdy when in rows of two or three, and slightly moreso when the channels were a smidge under 1/4" instead of a full 1/4". (I also quickly bent the first pieces of caning trying to insert it into that swatch.) But I'm still wondering if I should do something else. But what?  I'm trying not to get derailed into the "caning was the poor woman's material" discussion, because I'm not trying for whalebone, I won't use plastic, and I need stays.


... and on another note, I've figured out how to schedule LJ posts! All you have to do is adjust the date and/or time before you post, and it WILL show up on the friend's list appropriately.