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nuranarI temporarily mislaid my existing notes on this project, all from 
fancyfrocks's class at Costume College several years ago. But the idea is, taking a cue from wardrobe recommendations of the 1930s and 1940s, to assemble a versatile year-round wardrobe.
My goal is to have a complete but varied set of clothes that I can use to build different ensembles to fit the particular day's requirements. The typical costumer/historical approach doesn't work as well, because by the 1940s separates and layering pieces were extensively used, instead of having a series of gowns and then outerwear that may or may not coordinate. Accordingly, it takes more complete planning, so that one doesn't have four dresses of which only one is wearable with the only coat, or has lots of skirts but no period blouses that coordinate, or lots of fun hats and nothing that will go with them, etc.
From my memory: The recommended advice is to choose a base color, a neutral-colored building block. Black, brown, gray, and/or navy are examples. Basic pieces in this color are a winter coat and a suit. By the 1940s, it's recommended to have slacks out of the same material as the suit if possible, or coordinating if not. And possibly a second skirt. Plus shoes, bags, and hats.
Then a basic black dress - or, if more useful in warm climates - a basic white shirtdress.
A basic dress in a pretty color that coordinates with the neutral. The suit jacket can be worn with it for a different look.
Blouses in white and then similar or other colors that may be worn with the suit, or the skirt(s) or slacks alone.
If needed, a basic evening dress, probably black or maybe white.
I decided to work toward a wardrobe based on navy. I really like how I look in navy and I already had a lightweight navy topcoat. Some of the items, like the winter coat and suit, and the shoes, really should be bought. (Besides the work and special knowledge it takes, original 1940s tailoring really is the last word!) The suit, though, can be a real problem. There are many vintage suits on ebay, but size is always a problem; and identifiable pre-1946 suits are MUCH rarer in any size than late 1940s or 1950s suits.
I was very fortunate to get one - in navy! - last spring. It is single-breasted, with welt pockets and wide peaked lapels. The skirt needs tailored at the waist, but it has the perfect front inverted pleat and is hemmed to the exact right spot just under my knee. The jacket fits perfectly, except I had to let down the cuffs about 1". (Funny to have a longer skirt with shorter sleeves!)
When making a skirt for regular wear this fall, I stumbled into the perfect wool flannel. It's certainly not the same as the suit fabric, but it's very close in color. That's hard to do in navy! I went back and got lots of it, enough to make a lot more basics: slacks, a second skirt, an Ike jacket, and even a vest. With that, I can wear just about anything.
I've also been trying to focus my hat collecting. I look best in face-framing bonnet styles, angle-brimmed fedora styles, and angled tilt hats. Small on-the-head styles don't look as good. So I needed to focus on ones that had navy instead of black, brown, or cream bases. And unfortunately, although I love the bonnet styles, I have never yet been to a WWII event outside that didn't have significant wind. It's a fact of life in North Texas. And even though I *can* anchor a hat securely, a strong wind can still blow it back or bend it. So I've been trying to get smaller ones that won't act like sails.
The other need-to-buy holes are:
(a) A heavier coat. My topcoat is a single layer of medium/heavyweight wool herringbone, with a rayon lining. It's not warm enough for a real cold day.
(b) Winter shoes. Navy shoes are very hard to find. I have some wonderful navy summer sandal heels - peeptoe and ankle straps - but I really need closed-toe shoes as well.
Now, my list of WWII garments to sew, from a brainstorming session. All fabrics and patterns are currently in my stash, and most are photographed.
Dresses
Rose pink rayon: New York 1070, ruched bodice dress with full skirt and petal sleeves
Red flowered rayon: Simplicity 3671, View 3, short sleeves
White linen/cotton: Simplicity 3517, View 1, short sleeves
Red rayon: McCall 3351, 3/4 sleeves
Separates
Blouse: red rayon, Simplicity 2286, long sleeve with peplum and belt - COMPLETE
Blouse: pink linen blend, Simplicity 2286, long sleeve with peplum and belt - IN PROGRESS (made as wearable muslin - need belt prong)
Blouse: blue rayon, DuBarry 5285, View 1A, long sleeve with white collar & jabot, trimmed with lace
Blouse: white rayon, Mail Order 2525 View A, long sleeve
Blouse: white rayon, Hollywood 1117, View 2, short sleeve
Slacks: navy wool flannel, Eva Dress overalls, made as trousers
Jacket: navy wool flannel, Simplicity 4366, Ike jacket, without peplum
Vest: navy wool flannel, Simplicity 4749 View 4, four pockets
Other
Black rayon crepe: Simplicity 2932, sheath evening dress - IN PROGRESS
Pale pink/peach thin silk or silk/cotton (4 yards):
- Wearing History 4005, tap pants
- Simplicity 1144, full slip
Undecided
Navy wool flannel - Make skirt
- Simplicity 4366, pleated front skirt - CON: Nearly identical design to suit skirt.
- Different design skirt?
Blue flowered rayon (only 2 yards):
- Hollywood 1391, as a two-tone dress with CF panels in print - needs dark blue coordinating rayon - pattern needs resizing as well - OR
- Simplicity 2286, long sleeve blouse
Rose pink silk/linen (only 3 yards) (not wild about either option):
- Hollywood 466
- Pictorial 9625
Dark midnight/teal heavier rayon crepe
- ??? pattern? What to wear it with? Doesn't do much with the navy items, and too dark ditto with black.
Remainder of black rayon crepe
- basic skirt of some kind - quite lightweight.
Observations
* Good mix of pink and red in different designs, both of which look good with navy.
- Green would be a nice addition; have green Remix shoes, and the green Pearl Harbor pin. Need true leaf or Kelly green.
* No long sleeve dresses. Why?
- Also have blue flowered lawn with short sleeves, and navy/white linen dress.
- Do have long sleeve two-piece dress in blue wool already; also vintage dark blue with printed flower long sleeve rayon dress.
- Dark blue rayon crepe will make a dark dress, suited for long sleeves.
- Rayon "feels" cold and can be uncomfortable in cool weather, even with long sleeves. Light wool probably preferable.
* Only one short sleeve blouse, whereas four long sleeve.
- Have vintage dotted swiss white blouse; also long sleeve white hankie linen blouse from DuBarry 5285.
- Most blouse patterns have nice long sleeves; shame to "waste" them by using short version?
- Light rayon looks better in a blouse than a light wool does. Wool for dresses, rayon for blouses.
-> Result: Wear dresses only in hot weather, mix separates in cold weather. Is this a problem?
- It's logical. The skirts are all wool. Not heavy, but still wool.
- Can add dresses as find wools or heavier rayons in pretty colors.
fancyfrocks's class at Costume College several years ago. But the idea is, taking a cue from wardrobe recommendations of the 1930s and 1940s, to assemble a versatile year-round wardrobe.My goal is to have a complete but varied set of clothes that I can use to build different ensembles to fit the particular day's requirements. The typical costumer/historical approach doesn't work as well, because by the 1940s separates and layering pieces were extensively used, instead of having a series of gowns and then outerwear that may or may not coordinate. Accordingly, it takes more complete planning, so that one doesn't have four dresses of which only one is wearable with the only coat, or has lots of skirts but no period blouses that coordinate, or lots of fun hats and nothing that will go with them, etc.
From my memory: The recommended advice is to choose a base color, a neutral-colored building block. Black, brown, gray, and/or navy are examples. Basic pieces in this color are a winter coat and a suit. By the 1940s, it's recommended to have slacks out of the same material as the suit if possible, or coordinating if not. And possibly a second skirt. Plus shoes, bags, and hats.
Then a basic black dress - or, if more useful in warm climates - a basic white shirtdress.
A basic dress in a pretty color that coordinates with the neutral. The suit jacket can be worn with it for a different look.
Blouses in white and then similar or other colors that may be worn with the suit, or the skirt(s) or slacks alone.
If needed, a basic evening dress, probably black or maybe white.
I decided to work toward a wardrobe based on navy. I really like how I look in navy and I already had a lightweight navy topcoat. Some of the items, like the winter coat and suit, and the shoes, really should be bought. (Besides the work and special knowledge it takes, original 1940s tailoring really is the last word!) The suit, though, can be a real problem. There are many vintage suits on ebay, but size is always a problem; and identifiable pre-1946 suits are MUCH rarer in any size than late 1940s or 1950s suits.
I was very fortunate to get one - in navy! - last spring. It is single-breasted, with welt pockets and wide peaked lapels. The skirt needs tailored at the waist, but it has the perfect front inverted pleat and is hemmed to the exact right spot just under my knee. The jacket fits perfectly, except I had to let down the cuffs about 1". (Funny to have a longer skirt with shorter sleeves!)
When making a skirt for regular wear this fall, I stumbled into the perfect wool flannel. It's certainly not the same as the suit fabric, but it's very close in color. That's hard to do in navy! I went back and got lots of it, enough to make a lot more basics: slacks, a second skirt, an Ike jacket, and even a vest. With that, I can wear just about anything.
I've also been trying to focus my hat collecting. I look best in face-framing bonnet styles, angle-brimmed fedora styles, and angled tilt hats. Small on-the-head styles don't look as good. So I needed to focus on ones that had navy instead of black, brown, or cream bases. And unfortunately, although I love the bonnet styles, I have never yet been to a WWII event outside that didn't have significant wind. It's a fact of life in North Texas. And even though I *can* anchor a hat securely, a strong wind can still blow it back or bend it. So I've been trying to get smaller ones that won't act like sails.
The other need-to-buy holes are:
(a) A heavier coat. My topcoat is a single layer of medium/heavyweight wool herringbone, with a rayon lining. It's not warm enough for a real cold day.
(b) Winter shoes. Navy shoes are very hard to find. I have some wonderful navy summer sandal heels - peeptoe and ankle straps - but I really need closed-toe shoes as well.
Now, my list of WWII garments to sew, from a brainstorming session. All fabrics and patterns are currently in my stash, and most are photographed.
Dresses
Rose pink rayon: New York 1070, ruched bodice dress with full skirt and petal sleeves
Red flowered rayon: Simplicity 3671, View 3, short sleeves
White linen/cotton: Simplicity 3517, View 1, short sleeves
Red rayon: McCall 3351, 3/4 sleeves
Separates
Blouse: red rayon, Simplicity 2286, long sleeve with peplum and belt - COMPLETE
Blouse: pink linen blend, Simplicity 2286, long sleeve with peplum and belt - IN PROGRESS (made as wearable muslin - need belt prong)
Blouse: blue rayon, DuBarry 5285, View 1A, long sleeve with white collar & jabot, trimmed with lace
Blouse: white rayon, Mail Order 2525 View A, long sleeve
Blouse: white rayon, Hollywood 1117, View 2, short sleeve
Slacks: navy wool flannel, Eva Dress overalls, made as trousers
Jacket: navy wool flannel, Simplicity 4366, Ike jacket, without peplum
Vest: navy wool flannel, Simplicity 4749 View 4, four pockets
Other
Black rayon crepe: Simplicity 2932, sheath evening dress - IN PROGRESS
Pale pink/peach thin silk or silk/cotton (4 yards):
- Wearing History 4005, tap pants
- Simplicity 1144, full slip
Undecided
Navy wool flannel - Make skirt
- Simplicity 4366, pleated front skirt - CON: Nearly identical design to suit skirt.
- Different design skirt?
Blue flowered rayon (only 2 yards):
- Hollywood 1391, as a two-tone dress with CF panels in print - needs dark blue coordinating rayon - pattern needs resizing as well - OR
- Simplicity 2286, long sleeve blouse
Rose pink silk/linen (only 3 yards) (not wild about either option):
- Hollywood 466
- Pictorial 9625
Dark midnight/teal heavier rayon crepe
- ??? pattern? What to wear it with? Doesn't do much with the navy items, and too dark ditto with black.
Remainder of black rayon crepe
- basic skirt of some kind - quite lightweight.
Observations
* Good mix of pink and red in different designs, both of which look good with navy.
- Green would be a nice addition; have green Remix shoes, and the green Pearl Harbor pin. Need true leaf or Kelly green.
* No long sleeve dresses. Why?
- Also have blue flowered lawn with short sleeves, and navy/white linen dress.
- Do have long sleeve two-piece dress in blue wool already; also vintage dark blue with printed flower long sleeve rayon dress.
- Dark blue rayon crepe will make a dark dress, suited for long sleeves.
- Rayon "feels" cold and can be uncomfortable in cool weather, even with long sleeves. Light wool probably preferable.
* Only one short sleeve blouse, whereas four long sleeve.
- Have vintage dotted swiss white blouse; also long sleeve white hankie linen blouse from DuBarry 5285.
- Most blouse patterns have nice long sleeves; shame to "waste" them by using short version?
- Light rayon looks better in a blouse than a light wool does. Wool for dresses, rayon for blouses.
-> Result: Wear dresses only in hot weather, mix separates in cold weather. Is this a problem?
- It's logical. The skirts are all wool. Not heavy, but still wool.
- Can add dresses as find wools or heavier rayons in pretty colors.