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nuranarThe pattern I'm using now is Simplicity 3365, c. 1941. I've already made it up once and it fit like a glove. I tried it on again, with the bandeau, and it still looked fantastic.
Of course I had to try a real muslin, because (a) I didn't know how the armholes would look when there was no sleeve, and (b) I had to leave the princess seams undone below the waist so I could "fit" it over the pannier. I also drafted the inset pieces onto the center front and center back. Most of the shaping is on the outer edge of each one, so that wasn't hard.
I just tried it on and it's wonderful! There's a little bit of rumpliness, which is totally fine. While looking at robe de style pictures, there's a variety of methods used to cut and fit them. Two of the obvious ones:
1. All rumpled up with Terminal Horizontal Wrinkliness, engineered with gathered side seams. Looks distinctly more like a bliaut effect across the midsection than 18th century.
2. Slightly fitted at the side seams. Sometimes fairly smooth, especially on slender models with shoulders and hips that balance. Side wrinkling on the mannequin shows where the waist is nipped in, but the mannequin lacks the hip or hoop to hold out the bodice. Sometimes the bodicelooks extra long. When worn on a real body, that almost always results in horizontal wrinkliness similar to the earlier styles.
And others aren't so clear, but are blousey, or more tubular and loose, or (flip side) seem extra fitted, including some of those with princess or other seaming. But very very often, regardless of the cut, and especially in taffeta, there is wrinkling. So I don't want to try to draft any wrinkliness out. It's not going to be skin tight, and the creased look seems actually desired.
Anyway, the other thing on my muslin was that I used strips of tape to approximate how much extra flare to add on each seam below the waist. The last tweak is to try to cut the center front on the fold. As drafted there's a very slight curve, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I need to go make some food for dinner (and lunches for the next week), but I think I can haz a REAL pattern tonight. Yay!
Of course I had to try a real muslin, because (a) I didn't know how the armholes would look when there was no sleeve, and (b) I had to leave the princess seams undone below the waist so I could "fit" it over the pannier. I also drafted the inset pieces onto the center front and center back. Most of the shaping is on the outer edge of each one, so that wasn't hard.
I just tried it on and it's wonderful! There's a little bit of rumpliness, which is totally fine. While looking at robe de style pictures, there's a variety of methods used to cut and fit them. Two of the obvious ones:
1. All rumpled up with Terminal Horizontal Wrinkliness, engineered with gathered side seams. Looks distinctly more like a bliaut effect across the midsection than 18th century.
2. Slightly fitted at the side seams. Sometimes fairly smooth, especially on slender models with shoulders and hips that balance. Side wrinkling on the mannequin shows where the waist is nipped in, but the mannequin lacks the hip or hoop to hold out the bodice. Sometimes the bodicelooks extra long. When worn on a real body, that almost always results in horizontal wrinkliness similar to the earlier styles.
And others aren't so clear, but are blousey, or more tubular and loose, or (flip side) seem extra fitted, including some of those with princess or other seaming. But very very often, regardless of the cut, and especially in taffeta, there is wrinkling. So I don't want to try to draft any wrinkliness out. It's not going to be skin tight, and the creased look seems actually desired.
Anyway, the other thing on my muslin was that I used strips of tape to approximate how much extra flare to add on each seam below the waist. The last tweak is to try to cut the center front on the fold. As drafted there's a very slight curve, so it shouldn't be an issue.
I need to go make some food for dinner (and lunches for the next week), but I think I can haz a REAL pattern tonight. Yay!
