Rejoicing with the Truth

This tutorial is totally from the method taught by Carolann Schmitt. Carolann Schmitt, of the Genteel Arts Academy, has been studying Civil War-period clothing since the 1960s. This method is documented for common use in 1860-1865 garments. I can't vouch for its 100% authenticity before or after, though I suspect that it's feasible for as early as hook and eye tape was a thing (it could be made at home as well as bought commercially) and could of course be used later in the century.

Requirements

* Use lighter weight hook and eye tape when possible. On some, the tape is quite stiff and heavy.
* Either black or white tape is useable. Carolann uses the black even on light-colored bodices; there are enough layers that it is doesn't shadow through.
* The tape must be edge-to-edge, with no under- or overlap.
* The directions are for a bodice with a straight, or nearly straight, center front line. Mine is slightly curved and it worked okay; more significant curves will need more careful pinning.
* 1/2" seam allowance is used.

NOTE: This method is for a fully lined bodice. I'll show how to adapt it to a single layer bodice at the end, but note that that method is NOT totally invisible. (I'm not sure it's possible to do totally invisible closures on an unlined bodice!)


In the pictures, the plaid is my fashion fabric. My lining is brown.




1. Cut out bodice fronts in both fashion fabric and lining. If your fabric has a pattern, make sure to match or mirror it along the center front line.

2. The bodice front pattern is the same up to the center front line. The allowances past the center front are different because of the different methods used for applying the tape:
   * The cutting line for the the eye (usually left) side is 1/2" outside the center front line.
   * The cutting line for the hook (usually right) side is a full 2 1/2" outside the center front line.

3. Mark the center fronts on all pieces. On the hook side, also mark two more lines, one 1/2" outside the CF, and one 1" outside CF. Be sure to line these up along the pattern of the fabric if you're trying to match it.

The tape is inserted right after the pieces are cut out and marked, so do not sew up the side seams or do darts or anything else yet.

4. Measure and cut the tape so that the top hook is no less than 1.5" from the top of the bodice piece and the bottom hook no less than 1" from the bottom of the bodice. (Allow more if you're doing an applied waistband.)

( For further instructions and lots of pictures, click here! )

( Single Layer Bodice )


I hope that's helpful!