Rejoicing with the Truth

M5053MA_214X04X00073_L_3, a photo by nuranar on Flickr.

I'm also beginning the massive task of tagging. I'm trying to be very specific, using the terms from the captions (such as "chapeau," "capote," "turban," or "toque" instead of general "hat") as well as particular accessories or elements ("parasol," "reticule", "earrings," "tunic," "fur," "wool," "plaid," "stripes" etc.) that might be useful to know about. I'm also using general terms ("millinery" as a catch-all for headwear, "outerwear" for unidentified coats or jackets or cape-things, "patterned fabric" to include stripes, plaids, dots, and other things).  And "hair" for plates that show details of hairstyles, and "headdress" for plates that show ornamented hairstyles that really aren't hats.

I'm rapidly getting better at identifying elements that are more subtle, but still significant. This is important for English plates, which are only labeled "Afternoon Dress" or something instead of describing the ensemble.  I'll go ahead and add "turban" instead of the more general "millinery."  I'm also using "overdress" to describe a sleeveless dress, "jumper" in the U.S., that is worn over a separate bodice-like element. These jumpers show up a lot in certain English sources, such as Mrs Hurst Dancing (plus recent Austen adaptations), so I'm trying to trace their appearance.

The most confusing thing is the various filmy white things. Early in the 1800s there are lots of "canezous," semi-sheer white (usually sleeved) jackets, often with lots of tucks and puffs and peplums, worn over another dress. Then the "fichu" appeared, usually looking like a wide, narrow triangle, but sometimes colored and patterned. Then there's the "tablier-fichu" or "fichu-tablier" (both versions in the same year), which looks essentially like a fancy semi-sheer pinafore. And I've run across "fichu-guimpe," too, which I suspect truly means the semi-bodice that goes under an overdress to provide sleeves and neckline coverage. Then there are ruffs and things I'd call chemisettes, though I have yet to find that term.  So this is the area in which I've made the most judgment calls, tagging "chemisette" when I see something that looks like one and is not identified as something else, and using "fichu" as a general term from the appearance, or even if labeled with something more specific.

I sure hope it's helpful! I know *I* will use it. ;)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/alltags/


Next up, as requested, will be the 18th century entries. They're not as well organized, dated, or complete as these 1800-onward plates. However, I think they'll be enjoyable.